Homecoming – Part 7

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Little Current swing bridge

After a good night’s sleep we awoke with plans to visit the Benjamin Islands and maybe spend a night anchored in that area. Perky started right up and idled smoothly as we untied our dock lines in the still morning air. We throttled up to leave and Perky died again, but not before getting us about 10 feet from the dock! We were able to use what little momentum we had to tie up further up the dock. We were now in the fuel dock area, but didn’t have a lot of options.

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Ruins near Little Current

As Tom worked to start the engine, the fuel dock manager complained to Kristi about our position. We got the motor to stumble along just enough to let us circle back to our previous location. The days mileage would stand at about 100 feet, round trip. At this point we spent the day checking and changing everything we could and finally got her running again. We ran her at the dock full throttle for about 5 minutes with no trouble. So with fading light, we watched the bridge and told ourselves tomorrow would be better.

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The Benjamin Islands

The next day was clear and sunny as we timidly left the dock. We watched the scenery and listened intently to Perky the diesel as once again, there was no wind. After about an hour Perky’s familiar hiccups came back, but we chugged onward. Despite all of our problems so far Tom insisted that we make a slight detour to at least cruise through the Benjamin Islands. The Benjamins are unique in that they are essentially pink granite boulders so huge they form islands. With a few trees growing in the crevices they have a very stark yet haunting look.

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Meldrum Bay Marina

After looking around we headed off to our next overnight stop, Meldrum Bay. Once clear of the Benjamin Islands the water opened up again and we had no worries apart from our ailing engine.  We pulled into Meldrum Bay Marina and found a very rustic place in the middle of a wilderness area. The bay is well protected and quiee, at least in June.  A perfect setting for getting away from it all, but not so perfect for fixing a still ailing engine. Nevertheless, it turned out to be a very good stop.

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Excellent meals at Meldrum Bay Inn

We were directed to Meldrum Bay Inn just up the hill from the marina for a meal and Wi-Fi since we needed to do some research. We were a bit surprised when our hostess informed us that she would only give us the Wi-Fi password after our meal. She suggested we relax, talk, eat, and forget our problems for a bit, and that was the best advice we got on the entire trip! So, for best meal, best atmosphere and best advice of the trip we nominate the Meldrum Bay Inn.

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Tom studying the Perkins repair manual

Back at the boat Tom studied the Perkins shop manual again and found some bleeder screws he had missed previously. In a bid to fix it once and for all he changed all the fuel filters again, and bled the the entire fuel system (this time including the mystery screw). Testing the engine again at full power, she ran like a champ. A power cruiser came in after the marina staff left and we helped them dock and then chatted a bit. They agreed that Meldrum Bay is a great spot to stop.

So once again we went to bed tired but happy knowing our next stop would be Drummond Island, MI, USA.

Continue to Part 8

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 8

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Docked at Drummond Island, MI, USA

On the last day of June, 2015 we untied the lines and headed from Meldrum Bay to Drummond Island. We were very excited to be returning to the USA, but neither of us could put our finger on exactly why. The weather was chilly and fair, but with a lake haze that washed out distant shores. We were motoring due to some sail problems, but our passage was uneventful, with nary a hiccup from Perky, our diesel. We were happy to have those problems finally behind us.

At Drummond Island Yacht Haven we were directed to come into the fuel dock to clear customs. The wind was blowing us off the dock hard, so Kristi threw our midship line to the dock hand with instructions to tie us off to the cleat at the end of the dock. Normally this would give us a spring line and we could use the engine to snug us up to the dock. The dock hand just stood there and pulled on the line. Did this 100 pound girl really think she was going to muscle in a 35,000 pound boat? We did manage to get tied up with a little drama after being pinned to the pilings in the middle of the slot.

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Kristi beating Tom at pool

Our main reason for stopping here is because US Customs has an officer on site. The Customs agent was very nice and even printed out a form we thought we didn’t need. Importation with an old boat that was built in the US was a non-event, and we were back in the USA! The friendly folks at the marina decided that with the problems we had docking, and the wind increasing, we could just stay there. After a short rest it seemed like a good reason to celebrate, so we took one of the $12 rental cars and went into town for dinner and drinks, and even a game of pool. It felt good to be “home” again.

The evening was cold, but we were excited to be getting closer to home waters.

Continue to Part 9

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 9

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Another lighthouse

We woke up early on July 1, 2015 to a chilly, gray day but we were full of excitement. The wind had died down so leaving the dock should be no trouble at all, except for one minor detail. Perky, our diesel engine, refused to start. Not a single cylinder would fire. Tom had just been through everything there was to purge air from the fuel system 2 nights ago, and we experienced no problems at all yesterday. Tom decided to call in the cavalry. Drummond Yacht Haven sent over their head mechanic to have a look. Of course he started doing all the things Tom had done two nights before. Finally he changed the fuel filter and discovered a missing o-ring, that must have fallen off as Tom installed the filter. How it ran at all without it was a mystery to everyone, but we were running again.

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Mackinac Island Bridge

Off we went, headed for the Straights of Mackinac. Or is it Mackinaw? Curiously, it seems to depend on whether you’re on the island or the mainland. Of course Mackinac Island is the finish line for the Chicago-Mackinac, the longest freshwater sailboat race in the world. The clouds broke up and we had a gorgeous day of sightseeing. Kristi arranged a slip at Mackinaw City Marina since Mackinac Island was overcrowded. Everyone was very friendly, but the marina is a little rolly during the day due to island ferries going in and out. No worries, it calms down at night, once the ferries are done.

After we got settled and enjoyed a well deserved beer we strolled around the touristy part of town, did a little shopping, shared a funnel cake and generally had a good time. Once again, due to our schedule, and needing to conserve our “weather days”, we had to push on the next morning to Beaver Island.

Continue to Part 10

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 10

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Not bent over the engine for once

We had a beautiful, sunny day for crossing under the Mackinac Bridge that separates Lakes Michigan and Huron. They’re technically really one lake, and share the same water level, but I won’t argue with hundreds of years of tradition. Our destination for the afternoon would be Beaver Island, and with Perky running like the proverbial top, we had no worries at all.. This was a fairly short day for us, and with smooth water we managed to start late and finish early.

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Docked at Beaver Island

We pulled into the very well protected St. James Harbor and headed for Beaver Island Marina.  Be sure to follow the marked channel because it gets pretty shallow in parts of the harbor.  Our friendly and efficient dock hands parked us right next to a Hatteras 52 motor yacht.  Our friendly neighbor explained that they had previously sailed the world but settled for a few years in Beaver Island. Now they were preparing the big Hatteras to head south, to the Gulf of Mexico, having experienced one too many Beaver Island winters. We met plenty of friendly people on Beaver Island. We did some minor re-provisioning at the grocery store, conveniently located just across the road from the rustic marina. Be prepared to pay island prices though. Downtown was a pleasant, and scenic walk away.

Beaver Island was settled by Irish immigrants and the entire town P1020295has a nautical Irish flair that seems to fit this island just right. We would heartily recommend Beaver Island if you’re looking for a laid back, relaxing town surrounded by wilderness.  This is not a tourist trap type of place, but they do welcome boaters. Nautical architecture and Irish heritage was a bonus for us.

More than just a stepping stone to other destinations, Beaver Island deserves to be a destination in it’s own right, but maybe that would spoil it. Take a trip and judge for yourself.

Continue to Part 11

LaSalle to Racine Map

Homecoming – Part 11

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The only sunlight we saw

With a prediction for mild conditions, we headed for our next stopover, Washington Island with the dawn. As we headed out it was cloudy, cool and calm, but the wind and waves built throughout the day until we found ourselves pounding into the kind of steep waves that Lake Michigan sailors know so well. We estimated five foot waves to be the norm with some larger waves thrown in occasionally. Enough so that our bimini top (over the cockpit), 11 feet above the water was wet when we got in.

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Our USCG neighbors

Pearl Lee is a very sturdy and comfortable boat, but the motion became a bit monotonous. Adding
to our boredom was nothing but water and whitecaps as far as we could see. Due to some very shallow water we had to go south of Detroit Island and approach the harbor from between Detroit and Plum Islands. The channel is well marked. Eventually we got into the protected waters of the harbor and arrived at Kap’s Marina. If you go to Kap’s, don’t expect a sleek modern appearance or concierge service. What you’ll get is a family owned marina with friendly helpful staff and crystal clear water. There is an onsite restaurant with a 50’s motif and great food. Be on your best behavior, the Coast Guard station will be your neighbors at Kap’s. Overall the place brought back childhood memories of north-woods fishing resorts. Since it was July third we decided to stay put for Independence Day. Kap’s even had their own fireworks display that evening, so as not to compete with the town’s display on the fourth.

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Independence Day on Washington Island

We fully intended to spend the Fourth of July wandering the town, but frankly we were exhausted. So we spent the day puttering around the boat and mostly just relaxing. This was our first “day off” since the journey began in LaSalle. We both agreed, the day off was needed, and some rest, sunshine and warm temps improved our spirits. All in all, a fine place to be on a sunny Fourth of July.

Next up would be a cruise past scenic Door County on our way to Sturgeon Bay.

Continue to Part 12