Homecoming – Part 4

Early in the morning, on June 24, 2015 we backed out of our slip at Goderich, turned right on Lake Huron and we were on our way to Port Elgin (pronounced with a hard G, as in “gun”). With little to no wind, and small waves we motored north. It was sunny, but a bit cold with wind finally kicking up just as we wanted to dock (why does it do this?).

Docked at Port Elgin
Docked at Port Elgin

As we negotiated the channel and breakwater into Port Elgin Harbour, people on the dock were shouting and pointing in three different directions which caused some confusion. We bumped the fuel dock slightly due to bad directions and somewhat unfamiliar controls, but eventually made it into our slip for the night. Lessons learned, pay no attention to the bystanders, and when in doubt go back out. You can always approach again once you have things sorted. With nowhere nearby to go, we relaxed and got ready for the next day’s trip to Tobermory.

Drizzley cruise to Tobermory
Drizzley cruise to Tobermory

Fog, drizzle and very cool temperatures marked our trip to Tobermory. We didn’t see another boat out all day and at times felt like we were the only people on Earth. We motored along fog shrouded islands, feeling our way forward. We were very thankful for our full cockpit enclosure which kept us dry and relatively comfortable.

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Docked at Tobermory

Finally, rounding Bonnet Island we could see Tobermory Harbour. As we got closer it seemed more and more like a 19th century fishing village. The staff was helpful and professional in getting us squared away. Once we were settled we explored the town a bit. If you want fish or fudge, this is your town. We did a bit of shopping and had an excellent whitefish dinner. This was one of our favorite stops, and we both wanted to stay longer because there was so much to see, but with limited time, as Kristi said, “If the weather is good, we have to move.”

We went to bed knowing that the next morning we were off to Killarney.

Homecoming – Part 5

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Docked at Tobermory

Early on the morning of June 26, 2015 we made ready to leave Tobermory and bound for Killarney. We were on a long dock with boats fore and aft and another long dock full of boats to port (left). Kristi thought we should wait for others to move, but with no wind or current Tom felt it was doable. So with morning fog still hugging the water we crept out in reverse, going dead slow and using the bow thruster like a rudder. No drama at all, although Kristi stood by with boat hook and fenders, and other boaters came out on deck to watch. Sometimes the bow thruster really is the Easy Button.

Flower Pot Island
Flower pots on Flower Pot Island
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The channel to Killarney

Once clear of the marina we headed for Killarney via Flower Pot Island. The island is named for rock formations that resemble flower pots and they really did! With sun shining and mild temps we had found a very beautiful part of the world. Somehow seeing it from our own boat made it that much better.
With no wind and flat water, we motored towards Killarney, marveling at rocky islands and crystal clear water. Killarney is situated in a narrow channel protected by a rocky island on one side, and rocky mainland on the other. We found Sportsman’s Marina to be very nice with a friendly young staff who actually knew a bit about boats. In the summer this is a very busy place since it’s a popular stop for most boats in the area. We were just a bit early for the summer season, so the crowds weren’t here yet. Just nice docks, excellent service and very clean facilities.

Sportsman's in Killarney
Sportsman’s in Killarney

Friends told us to look for the fish and chips bus for a great meal. We found that the bus had been so successful they are now in a building. Just walk up to the road, turn right and you can’t miss it. The fish and chips were excellent, but be aware this isn’t much fancier than the bus. After dinner we wandered the town a bit and did some shopping. We really liked Killarney and would love to go back during the “summer season”. If you’re visiting Lake Huron’s North Channel, be sure to venture a bit east of Little Current and check out Killarney. It’s a nice little town in a beautiful setting.

Finally it was time to start plotting a course for Little Current.

Continue to Part 5

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 6

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Killarney Airport

We had a short trip to Little Current so we weren’t in a big hurry to leave Killarney. We ate a leisurely breakfast aboard, watched the wildlife and even saw an airplane take off. Eventually though, it was time to go, so we cast off the dock lines, backed out (making sure no aircraft were coming) and headed out the narrow channel for Little Current.

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Giant rocks form islands

Leaving the beautiful channel we found a wonderland where rocky islands jutted up from the bottom in crystal clear water. Of course it’s the submerged rocks you really have to watch out for, but with water so clear you can see the bottom 15 feet below, the main problem is convincing yourself how far below the surface some of them are. We carefully threaded our way along our planned course while keeping an eye out for any obstacles.

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Strawberry Island Lighthouse

We were in no hurry at all, so we enjoyed the circuitous route to our destination. As we approached the swing bridge at Little Current we realized that we would just miss the opening, so we had a bit of time to kill while waiting for the next scheduled opening. Kristi got in some low speed steering practice while we meandered in the area, admiring the Strawberry Island lighthouse, until it was time to queue up for the bridge. The approach channel is very well marked and we idled up a little ahead of schedule, not wanted to miss it a second time.

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Little Current swing bridge
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At least we have good engine access

As the bridge swung open for us, Tom throttled up and Perky, our diesel, died. Luckily what little wind and current we had was with us, so we slowly drifted through the bridge while trying to restart. We had plenty of room, and Kristi took the helm with her only goal being to keep us off the hard stuff. Tom worked frantically to refire the diesel but all she did was crank. We realized that the town seawall was a good destination and Tom started to get the dinghy out of the davits to side tow us in. Just then a friendly power boater offered a tow, and with his help we were able to coast up to the seawall and tie up for the night.

Once tied up to the Little Current Town Dock, Tom got out the wrenches and worked at troubleshooting the engine… again. After a calming phone call from a diesel mechanic friend, who reminded him to stick to the basics, we got Perky running again.  We ran her up to full power, straining at the dock lines, with no sign of trouble. With both of us tired from a combination of travel, exertion and stress, we wandered into town and found dinner at the excellent Anchor Inn Grill.

We went to sleep that night tired but with plans to see the The Benjamin Islands the following day. Pearl Lee and Perky had other plans.

Continue to Part 7

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 7

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Little Current swing bridge

After a good night’s sleep we awoke with plans to visit the Benjamin Islands and maybe spend a night anchored in that area. Perky started right up and idled smoothly as we untied our dock lines in the still morning air. We throttled up to leave and Perky died again, but not before getting us about 10 feet from the dock! We were able to use what little momentum we had to tie up further up the dock. We were now in the fuel dock area, but didn’t have a lot of options.

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Ruins near Little Current

As Tom worked to start the engine, the fuel dock manager complained to Kristi about our position. We got the motor to stumble along just enough to let us circle back to our previous location. The days mileage would stand at about 100 feet, round trip. At this point we spent the day checking and changing everything we could and finally got her running again. We ran her at the dock full throttle for about 5 minutes with no trouble. So with fading light, we watched the bridge and told ourselves tomorrow would be better.

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The Benjamin Islands

The next day was clear and sunny as we timidly left the dock. We watched the scenery and listened intently to Perky the diesel as once again, there was no wind. After about an hour Perky’s familiar hiccups came back, but we chugged onward. Despite all of our problems so far Tom insisted that we make a slight detour to at least cruise through the Benjamin Islands. The Benjamins are unique in that they are essentially pink granite boulders so huge they form islands. With a few trees growing in the crevices they have a very stark yet haunting look.

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Meldrum Bay Marina

After looking around we headed off to our next overnight stop, Meldrum Bay. Once clear of the Benjamin Islands the water opened up again and we had no worries apart from our ailing engine.  We pulled into Meldrum Bay Marina and found a very rustic place in the middle of a wilderness area. The bay is well protected and quiee, at least in June.  A perfect setting for getting away from it all, but not so perfect for fixing a still ailing engine. Nevertheless, it turned out to be a very good stop.

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Excellent meals at Meldrum Bay Inn

We were directed to Meldrum Bay Inn just up the hill from the marina for a meal and Wi-Fi since we needed to do some research. We were a bit surprised when our hostess informed us that she would only give us the Wi-Fi password after our meal. She suggested we relax, talk, eat, and forget our problems for a bit, and that was the best advice we got on the entire trip! So, for best meal, best atmosphere and best advice of the trip we nominate the Meldrum Bay Inn.

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Tom studying the Perkins repair manual

Back at the boat Tom studied the Perkins shop manual again and found some bleeder screws he had missed previously. In a bid to fix it once and for all he changed all the fuel filters again, and bled the the entire fuel system (this time including the mystery screw). Testing the engine again at full power, she ran like a champ. A power cruiser came in after the marina staff left and we helped them dock and then chatted a bit. They agreed that Meldrum Bay is a great spot to stop.

So once again we went to bed tired but happy knowing our next stop would be Drummond Island, MI, USA.

Continue to Part 8

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 8

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Docked at Drummond Island, MI, USA

On the last day of June, 2015 we untied the lines and headed from Meldrum Bay to Drummond Island. We were very excited to be returning to the USA, but neither of us could put our finger on exactly why. The weather was chilly and fair, but with a lake haze that washed out distant shores. We were motoring due to some sail problems, but our passage was uneventful, with nary a hiccup from Perky, our diesel. We were happy to have those problems finally behind us.

At Drummond Island Yacht Haven we were directed to come into the fuel dock to clear customs. The wind was blowing us off the dock hard, so Kristi threw our midship line to the dock hand with instructions to tie us off to the cleat at the end of the dock. Normally this would give us a spring line and we could use the engine to snug us up to the dock. The dock hand just stood there and pulled on the line. Did this 100 pound girl really think she was going to muscle in a 35,000 pound boat? We did manage to get tied up with a little drama after being pinned to the pilings in the middle of the slot.

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Kristi beating Tom at pool

Our main reason for stopping here is because US Customs has an officer on site. The Customs agent was very nice and even printed out a form we thought we didn’t need. Importation with an old boat that was built in the US was a non-event, and we were back in the USA! The friendly folks at the marina decided that with the problems we had docking, and the wind increasing, we could just stay there. After a short rest it seemed like a good reason to celebrate, so we took one of the $12 rental cars and went into town for dinner and drinks, and even a game of pool. It felt good to be “home” again.

The evening was cold, but we were excited to be getting closer to home waters.

Continue to Part 9

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 9

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Another lighthouse

We woke up early on July 1, 2015 to a chilly, gray day but we were full of excitement. The wind had died down so leaving the dock should be no trouble at all, except for one minor detail. Perky, our diesel engine, refused to start. Not a single cylinder would fire. Tom had just been through everything there was to purge air from the fuel system 2 nights ago, and we experienced no problems at all yesterday. Tom decided to call in the cavalry. Drummond Yacht Haven sent over their head mechanic to have a look. Of course he started doing all the things Tom had done two nights before. Finally he changed the fuel filter and discovered a missing o-ring, that must have fallen off as Tom installed the filter. How it ran at all without it was a mystery to everyone, but we were running again.

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Mackinac Island Bridge

Off we went, headed for the Straights of Mackinac. Or is it Mackinaw? Curiously, it seems to depend on whether you’re on the island or the mainland. Of course Mackinac Island is the finish line for the Chicago-Mackinac, the longest freshwater sailboat race in the world. The clouds broke up and we had a gorgeous day of sightseeing. Kristi arranged a slip at Mackinaw City Marina since Mackinac Island was overcrowded. Everyone was very friendly, but the marina is a little rolly during the day due to island ferries going in and out. No worries, it calms down at night, once the ferries are done.

After we got settled and enjoyed a well deserved beer we strolled around the touristy part of town, did a little shopping, shared a funnel cake and generally had a good time. Once again, due to our schedule, and needing to conserve our “weather days”, we had to push on the next morning to Beaver Island.

Continue to Part 10

LaSalle - Racine

Homecoming – Part 10

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Not bent over the engine for once

We had a beautiful, sunny day for crossing under the Mackinac Bridge that separates Lakes Michigan and Huron. They’re technically really one lake, and share the same water level, but I won’t argue with hundreds of years of tradition. Our destination for the afternoon would be Beaver Island, and with Perky running like the proverbial top, we had no worries at all.. This was a fairly short day for us, and with smooth water we managed to start late and finish early.

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Docked at Beaver Island

We pulled into the very well protected St. James Harbor and headed for Beaver Island Marina.  Be sure to follow the marked channel because it gets pretty shallow in parts of the harbor.  Our friendly and efficient dock hands parked us right next to a Hatteras 52 motor yacht.  Our friendly neighbor explained that they had previously sailed the world but settled for a few years in Beaver Island. Now they were preparing the big Hatteras to head south, to the Gulf of Mexico, having experienced one too many Beaver Island winters. We met plenty of friendly people on Beaver Island. We did some minor re-provisioning at the grocery store, conveniently located just across the road from the rustic marina. Be prepared to pay island prices though. Downtown was a pleasant, and scenic walk away.

Beaver Island was settled by Irish immigrants and the entire town P1020295has a nautical Irish flair that seems to fit this island just right. We would heartily recommend Beaver Island if you’re looking for a laid back, relaxing town surrounded by wilderness.  This is not a tourist trap type of place, but they do welcome boaters. Nautical architecture and Irish heritage was a bonus for us.

More than just a stepping stone to other destinations, Beaver Island deserves to be a destination in it’s own right, but maybe that would spoil it. Take a trip and judge for yourself.

Continue to Part 11

LaSalle to Racine Map

Homecoming – Part 11

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The only sunlight we saw

With a prediction for mild conditions, we headed for our next stopover, Washington Island with the dawn. As we headed out it was cloudy, cool and calm, but the wind and waves built throughout the day until we found ourselves pounding into the kind of steep waves that Lake Michigan sailors know so well. We estimated five foot waves to be the norm with some larger waves thrown in occasionally. Enough so that our bimini top (over the cockpit), 11 feet above the water was wet when we got in.

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Our USCG neighbors

Pearl Lee is a very sturdy and comfortable boat, but the motion became a bit monotonous. Adding
to our boredom was nothing but water and whitecaps as far as we could see. Due to some very shallow water we had to go south of Detroit Island and approach the harbor from between Detroit and Plum Islands. The channel is well marked. Eventually we got into the protected waters of the harbor and arrived at Kap’s Marina. If you go to Kap’s, don’t expect a sleek modern appearance or concierge service. What you’ll get is a family owned marina with friendly helpful staff and crystal clear water. There is an onsite restaurant with a 50’s motif and great food. Be on your best behavior, the Coast Guard station will be your neighbors at Kap’s. Overall the place brought back childhood memories of north-woods fishing resorts. Since it was July third we decided to stay put for Independence Day. Kap’s even had their own fireworks display that evening, so as not to compete with the town’s display on the fourth.

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Independence Day on Washington Island

We fully intended to spend the Fourth of July wandering the town, but frankly we were exhausted. So we spent the day puttering around the boat and mostly just relaxing. This was our first “day off” since the journey began in LaSalle. We both agreed, the day off was needed, and some rest, sunshine and warm temps improved our spirits. All in all, a fine place to be on a sunny Fourth of July.

Next up would be a cruise past scenic Door County on our way to Sturgeon Bay.

Continue to Part 12